Insight
How about a drinkette?- Part 4
Published
4 years agoon
By
The Post
For the last instalment of this piece, apart from continuing to have fun, I’m putting on my tourist guide hat.
I have visited Golden Gate at least four times. This is just across from the northern border of Lesotho, in the Free State. The huge sandstone formation that gives the place its name is spectacular, especially under the setting sun, when it glows radiant gold (to paraphrase Alan Paton, “ah, but your continent is beautiful!”) There are scenic drives with look-out spots from which you can spot rare eagles and vultures.
There are baboons — though don’t try to get close to them, and don’t feed them, as this encourages them to behave like the Artful Dodger (and one of these weeks I’m going to reveal in this column my absolute love of Dickens, who created the Dodger). From one look-out spot you can get the best view available of Mont-aux-Sources, the highest peak in Lesotho (or one of the highest; as I grow older, my data are getting dodgy).
The first time I stayed at the Golden Gate hotel (right opposite the sandstone Gate) I was with a visiting British friend, Margaret. Since then the hotel has been taken over by the Protea group and has become much smarter. We arrived after a long drive from Mafikeng and went straight to the bar. This was small and incredibly dark and all around the walls were hunters’ trophies — stuffed animal heads. The barman was elderly and looked as if he’d just come from a funeral, possibly his own.
The ice bucket for our wine turned out to be full of warm water, with a dead cockroach floating in it. There was a dinner menu, but it was too dark in the bar to read it. Margaret and I started to giggle —surreptitiously, of course — at which the point the barman let out a great groan. Margaret turned to me and whispered: “one thing I’ll say about you, Chris, you know how to take a girl to fun-filled places.” That finished me off.
Back to Golden Gate in a bit, but first to Lesotho, as it’s just across the border.
Once I took a few days holiday to Katse Dam with my taxi driver friend Tšepang Leuta (lumela, Tšepang!) We stayed overnight on the way at a guest-house in Pitseng, which gave us the opportunity to visit a favourite bar of mine, called London. This is attached to a garage and riotously lively: great fun. At the guest-house we had lovely Indian food and delicious home-made buttermilk (you see, not all my favourite drinks are alcoholic) and we made friends with a couple of young female American tourists, who weren’t going to be staying in Katse, but said they’d meet us at the hotel there the next day.
They found us, oddly enough, in the terrace bar at the hotel, overlooking the dam lake, where you can fish for superb Lesotho mountain trout and yellowtail and where I believe you can go water-skiing. The next couple of days Tšepang and I did tourist, in between drinks at the bar and endless rounds of the card game Casino (with an off-duty barman who turned out to be a former student of mine: cue for heartless jokes about the nature and quality of my lectures).
Things to do at Katse. There’s a great guided tour of the dam, including a talk on how the thing works, delivered (on that occasion) by a bright-as-a-button female NUL science graduate), and a breathtaking walk along a gallery facing the dam’s inner wall. We also got the low-down on how little the Republic pays for the billions of gallons of water that Lesotho pumps to it to keep the Free State and Johannesburg viable.
This is a scandal that must be addressed. But saying that reminds me of the poet e.e. cummings’ observation “a politician is an arse upon which no man has ever sat.”
In Katse there is also the botanical garden, which collects indigenous Lesotho transalpine plants (an incredible range of little beauties) and which has a nice tea-room at the top.
And finally back to Golden Gate. I did two research trips there with one of my junior colleagues, Lerato Masiea (lumela, Lerato!), the first when we were working on Mopeli-Paulus, the second for work towards the Translating Mofolo book. Both times we were interviewing people who lived in Phudithatchaba, but I didn’t want to stay there, and our interviewees, Chieftain Mopeli-Paulus and Njabulo Mabuso, were quite happy to drive down to work with us at Golden Gate, with petrol money, lunch and drinks laid on.
At our first dinner, the evening before we started work, so it was just the two of us, Lerato had a soft drink and then a lager and I had Graca, a nice Portuguese vinho verde or “green wine” (actually a dry white). I kept asking Lerato if he’d like to try some and he said no, he’d never cared for wine. But eventually he took a sip and said “mmm.” Then he took another sip and said “mmmm.” Then he asked if we could have another bottle. That’s my kinda guy.
Chris Dunton
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I closed last week by recording the dreadful news that trashy Trump had been elected called to mind WB Yeats’s poem “The Second Coming.” This is the poem whose opening lines gave Chinua Achebe the phrase “things fall apart.”
Yeats observes “Things fall apart, the centre cannot hold / Mere anarchy is loosed upon the world.”
It was written in 1919 and controversially uses Christian imagery relating to the Apocalypse and the Second Coming to reflect on the atmosphere in Europe following the slaughter of the First World War and the devastating flu epidemic that followed this.
It also reflects on the Irish War of Independence against British rule.
In lines that I can now read as if applying to the recent American election, Yeats mourns: “The best lack all conviction, while the worst / Are full of passionate intensity.”
And then I can visualise Trump in the poem’s closing lines: “What rough beast is this, its hour come round at last, / Slouching towards Bethlehem to be born?”
Trump is certainly a rough beast and isn’t the choice of verb, slouching, just perfect? For a non-allegorical account of the threat posed by the Dump, I can’t do better than to quote (as I often do) that fine South African political journalist, Will Shoki. In his words: “Trump’s administration simply won’t care about Palestinians, about the DRC, about the Sudanese.
It will be indifferent to the plight of the downtrodden and the oppressed, who will be portrayed as weak and pathetic. And it will give carte blanche [that is, free rein] to despotism and tyranny everywhere.
Not even social media, that once revered third-space we associated with subversion and revolution in the first quarter of the 21st century can save us because Silicon Valley is in Trump’s back pocket.”
So what follows the triumph of the Dump? We can’t just sit down and moan and bemoan. In a more recent piece of hers than the one I quoted last week, Rebecca Solnit has observed: “Authoritarians like Trump love fear, defeatism, surrender. Do not give them what they want . . . We must lay up supplies of love, care, trust, community and resolve — so we may resist the storm.”
Katt Lissard tells me that on November 7th following the confirmation of the election result, in the daytime and well into the evening in Manhattan, New York, there was a large demonstration in support of the immigrants Trump despises.
And a recent piece by Natasha Lennard gives us courage in its title “The Answer to Trump’s Victory is Radical Action.”
So, my Basotho readers, how about the peaceful bearing of some placards in front of the US Embassy in Maseru? Because the Dump doesn’t like you guys and gals one little bit.
One last morsel. I had intended to end this piece with the above call to action, but can’t resist quoting the following comment from the New York Times of November 13th on Trump’s plans to appoint his ministers.
I’m not sure a satirical gibe was intended (the clue is in the repeated use of the word “defence”), but it made me guffaw nonetheless. “Trump will nominate Pete Hegseth, a Fox News host with no government experience, as his defence secretary. Hegseth has often defended Trump on TV.” You see, it’s all about the Dump.
- Chris Dunton is a former Professor of English and Dean of Humanities at the National University of Lesotho.
Recently, an audio recording featuring the distressed MP for Thaba-Bosiu Constituency, Joseph Malebaleba, circulated on social media. The MP appears to have spent a sleepless night, struggling with the situation in which he and his associates from the Revolution for Prosperity (RFP) party were denied a school feeding tender valued at M250 million per annum.
In 2022, Lesotho’s political landscape underwent a significant shift with the emergence of the RFP led by some of the country’s wealthiest individuals. Among them was Samuel Ntsokoane Matekane, arguably one of the richest people in Lesotho, who took the helm as the party’s leader and ultimately, the Prime Minister of Lesotho.
The RFP’s victory in the general election raised eyebrows, and their subsequent actions have sparked concerns about the motivations behind their involvement in politics.
In an interview with an American broadcasting network just after he won the elections, Matekane made a striking statement, proclaiming that he would run Lesotho exactly as he runs his business.
At first glance, many thought he was joking, but as time has shown, his words were far from an idle threat. In the business world, the primary goal is to maximize profits, and it appears that the RFP is adopting a similar approach to governance.
Behind the scenes, alarming developments have been unfolding. A communication from an RFP WhatsApp group revealed a disturbing request from the Minister of Communications, Nthati Moorosi, who asked if anyone in the group had a construction business and could inbox her.
This raises questions about the RFP’s focus on using government resources to benefit their own business interests.
The government has been embroiled in a series of scandals that have raised serious concerns about the ethical conduct of its officials. Recent reports have revealed shocking incidents of misuse of public funds and conflicts of interest among key government figures.
Over the past two years, the RFP has been accused of awarding government contracts to companies affiliated with their members, further solidifying concerns about their self-serving agenda. For instance, vehicles purchased for the police were allegedly sourced from suppliers connected to a Minister’s son and MP.
The MP for Peka, Mohopoli Monokoane, was found to have hijacked fertiliser intended to support impoverished farmers, diverting crucial resources away from those in need for personal gain.
Such actions not only betray the trust of the public but also have a direct impact on the livelihoods of vulnerable communities. Monokoane appeared before the courts of law this week.
While farmers voice their concerns regarding fertiliser shortages, it seems that Bishop Teboho Ramela of St. Paul African Apostolic Church, who is also a businessman, is allegedly involved in a corrupt deal concerning a M10 million fertilizer allocation, benefiting from connections with wealthy individuals in government.
The procurement of fertiliser appears to be mired in controversy; recall that the Minister of Agriculture, Food Security and Nutrition, Thabo Mofosi, was also implicated in the M43 million tender.
The renovation of government buildings with elaborate lighting systems was contracted to a company owned by the son of an MP. The RFP’s enthusiasm for infrastructure development, specifically road construction and maintenance, is also tainted by self-interest, as they have companies capable of performing these tasks and supplying the necessary materials, such as asphalt.
Minister Moteane finds himself in a compromising situation regarding a lucrative M100 million airport tender that was awarded to his former company. Ministers have even gone so far as to award themselves ownership of diamond mines.
Meanwhile, the nation struggles with national identification and passport shortages, which according to my analysis the RFP seems hesitant to address until they can find a way to partner with an international company that will benefit their own interests.
The people of Lesotho are left wondering if their leaders are truly committed to serving the nation or simply lining their own pockets. As the RFP’s grip on power tightens, the consequences for Lesotho’s democracy and economy hang precariously in the balance.
It is imperative that citizens remain vigilant and demand transparency and accountability from their leaders, lest the nation slide further into an era of self-serving governance.
In conclusion, the RFP’s dominance has raised serious concerns about the motives behind their involvement in politics. The apparent prioritisation of personal profit over public welfare has sparked widespread disillusionment and mistrust among the population.
As Lesotho navigates this critical juncture, it is essential that its leaders are held accountable for their actions and that the nation’s best interests are placed above those of individuals.
Only through collective effort and a strong commitment to transparency and accountability can Lesotho ensure a brighter future for all its citizens.
Ramahooana Matlosa
Attentive readers will recall that some weeks ago, I scribbled a series of pieces on elections due to be held in the UK, France, South Africa, and the USA. These elections were unusually critical for the well-being of their countries and even that of the world.
The results of the last of these elections are now with us and we are faced with the devastating news that Donald Trump is heading back to the White House.
I can hardly think of worse news to swallow or to equip the world to survive the years ahead.
The Dump, as I call him, is one of the most odious, dangerous, untrustworthy individuals currently inhabiting planet Earth. To cite a few of his demerits: he is a convicted felon; he believes climate change is a hoax; he is a sexist and a racist (one of his former military advisers has gone so far as to describe him as a fascist).
He is a snuggle buddy of the Russian dictator Vladimir Putin and will probably discontinue aid to Ukraine as it resists invasion by Russia. Western European allies such as France, Germany and the UK are dismayed at his victory, as he holds the principles of democracy and constitutionalism in contempt.
As for Africa, well, he once described it as a “shit country,” so don’t look forward to much support from him.
Readers who spent time at the NUL will remember my dear colleague Katt Lissard who is now back home in New York. She spent some years with us as a Professor specialising in Theatre studies and was the Artistic Director of our international Winter / Summer Institute for Theatre for Development.
Many activists in the USA like Katt, who don’t see themselves as part of the political mainstream, chose to campaign for the Democrats and Kamala Harris in the hope of keeping Trump and the far right out of power. Confronted with the news of Trump’s victory, she sent an email to friends noting this was “just a brief check-in from the incomprehensible USA.”
She then explained: “We’re in shock and the early days of processing, but white supremacy, misogyny and anti-immigrant bias are alive and well and driving the boat here.” So, how do Katt and millions of decent, like-minded Americans plan to weather the storm?
Katt explained: “We were deeply depressed and deeply furious as it became clear that one of the worst human beings on the planet was going back to the White House, but we are still breathing and know that we will in the days ahead begin to formulate plans and strategies—and not just for heading north across the Canadian border.”
Picking up on that last point, it may well be that many decent Americans might just up and off across the border; Canada had better prepare for an avalanche of applications for residence permits.
And not just from Americans; in, for example, the American university system alone there are many many Africans employed in high positions (Professors and such-like), who must now face the fact they are living in a country whose leader despises them and who may opt to get out.
In her email written to her friends, once the news from hell had been confirmed, Katt quoted a piece by Rebecca Solnit, one of the most exciting writers at work in the USA today (readers may remember that I have previously reviewed two of her books for this newspaper, Whose Story is This? and Recollections of My Non-Existence).
Now Solnit is a feminist and at the heart of her work is a dissection of the way women have been marginalised in the USA (let’s remember that Kamala Harris, the Presidential candidate who lost to Trump, did so partly because so many American males could not bring themselves to vote for a woman.
I am thinking of the kind of male who invaded the White House when it was announced Trump had lost the 2020 election, bare-chested and wearing cow-horn helmets on their numbskull heads).
Solnit has this to say on our response to the Trump victory: “They want you to feel powerless and to surrender and to let them trample everything and you are not going to let them.
You are not giving up and neither am I. The fact that we cannot save everything does not mean we cannot save anything and everything we can save is worth saving.
You may need to grieve or scream or take time off, but you have a role no matter what, and right now good friends and good principles are worth gathering in.
Remember what you love. Remember what loves you. Remember in this tide of hate what love is.” And then: “A lot of us are going to resist by building solidarity and sanctuary.”
What is so morale-boosting about Solnit’s piece is not just her vision but also her command of language.
Her writing is so crisp and elegant. Language comes at us at its best, of course, in literature, and when I heard that the Dump was on the move back to the White House, I immediately recalled one of the most startling poems in the English language, “The Second Coming” by the Irish poet WB Yeats.
I’ll kick off with that next week.
To be concluded
Chris Dunton
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